Does This Little Piggy Go "Boom!"?

It was one of those unfortunate incidents: Somehow the male of the species had let both of the LP cylinders run out--on a cold night--after the LP supplier was closed. The one gallon barbeque tank was about empty--no hope there. Finally, by stretching his imagination (and finding a suitable "height adjuster") the miscreant male managed a house-warming thought: Steal one of the horizontal tanks off the camper and buy time.
After building up to proper height and stretching the LP "pigtail" hose that runs from the regulator down to the tank, it seemed a good idea to "sniff" for an LP leak, since that old pigtail really had to stretch to reach. "BEEEEEEP!" chided the LP leak detector. Sho 'nuf, those old, age-hardened pig tails were both a bit on the leaky side.

What's to do? Pig tails are by nature, time sensitive. Think of it in terms of tires: They may still "look good" but not hold the pressure. Has it been a while since you replaced your LP pig tails? It's an inexpensive and not-too-difficult a fix. A trip down to your RV supplier will fix you up for parts in short order. But what do you want on the "tank" end of the pig tail? With those new "OPD" gas valves, many think that the new "Acme" fittings that spin on the outside thread of the tank valve are just what the doctor ordered. Use your gas sniffer (we think that's best) or soap n dish soap solution to check out the leak-free-ness of your tails. If in doubt, toss the old ones out.

Well, a lot of LP suppliers are having second thoughts. Those new Acme fittings may not be all they're cracked up to be. As we reported last January, some dealers say the Acmes just don't seem to last too long. Our new pig tails came equipped with the "old school" POL fitting (screws into the valve, counter-clockwise) and a quick "handwheel" that allows us to stick it on the tank and tighten it up without a wrench.

The actual changeout is easy: An appropriate size end-wrench will quickly remove the pigtail from the regulator--it threads in the conventional way. Thread on the new fitting and torque it down snug (use a backup wrench on the regulator side to ensure fitness). A pair of 16" pigtails with fittings set us back less than $20. At the price of LP these days, even a little leak can run up a bill in a hurry, not to mention endangering safety if the gas goes where it shouldn't.

Pictured is a new "capped" POL fitting with the dealer supplied hand-wheel.

Alternative Light Bulbs

Nearly all of us hassle with the issues of RV interior lighting. The typical "incandescent" bulb is a power hog, and not always the most pleasant thing to try and read with. Fluorescent fixtures are much less "expensive" to feed in terms of how much power they use--a real plus for the boondocking set, however they are expensive to purchase.

Some have tried going to halogen bulbs for their reading lights. Halogens put out a pretty fair amount of light--more than than the same "size" and power consumption xenon bulb. However, a xenon bulb will last a whale of a lot longer than the equivalent halogen bulb.

If you do decide to go the halogen bulb route, take care when handling these bulbs. Back in another life, the male specie of this blog team was a movie house projectionist. Our big machines used halogen projector lamps, and replacing them required donning cotton gloves. It seems finger grease causes hot spots to develop on the glass portion of the bulbs, and premature failure is an almost certain result. When handling a halogen bulb, wear cotton gloves or use a CLEAN rag.

What about LED bulbs? They hold a lot of promise: Far less power consumption for the equivalent amount of light. But the problem many RVers report is this: They seem to be extremely sensitive to over-voltage situations and will burn out easily. Since battery charging is inherent in the life of an RVer, higher voltages can be present, and often create all kinds of grief.

Many RVers say they've had good (inexpensive) experiences purchasing xenon and halogen bulbs on eBay. Be careful and check out any potential seller's record before purchasing, and be sure to read the fine print--particularly information on how much you'll spend on "shipping and handling" charges.

Photo: greg westfall on flickr.com

Fix Plastic Plumbing Problems — It's a Snap!

It started out like a "B Grade" horror movie: Water was spotted on the floor near the shower. "Hey," says I, "Looks like we need to get a better tub mat. There's water on the floor here." Of course the reply had to be, "Not me, Big Boy. I completely towel off before I get out of the shower."

A little later that morning the disconcerting report came: "Hey! There's water squishing up from between the flooring pieces in front of the refrigerator!" A quick check revealed that we had more than a problem, Houston, we had a major plumbing leak. A closer examination revealed that the plastic fitting leading out of the water pump had cracked through, and water was making its way under the "Pergo" type flooring and squishing up wherever pressure was applied.

Our fulltime unit is a circa 1980's fifth wheel equipped with that nasty old gray plastic plumbing tubing that caused so much trouble a few years ago. Happily, a fix isn't all that difficult, and since there's so much of it out there, fittings aren't too hard to find. Maybe you can learn from our repair.

First, cut the water off —turn off the pump, or if you're connected, the 'city water' supply. While the tubing can be cut with a real sharp knife, or with a fine toothed hack saw, the best tool for the job is a PVC tubing cutter. You can pick one up at the big box hardware store for about ten bucks. Just be careful and don't get too close to the fitting like I did--some have metal sleeves inside the tubing and it'll chew the dickens out of your new tubing cutter blades in a hurry. Cut off the fitting (or open up the offending portion of tubing) squarely. If you use alternative tools, make sure you "clean up" any burrs with sandpaper.
A quick trip to Quartzsite's finest hardware store set me up with a new water pump elbow. Tubing replacement fittings built for the job are plastic, and a have a coupler wherever the fitting meets up with tubing. Remove the coupler, slide it down over the tubing, and shove the fitting down into the tubing with a twisting motion until it "seats" down all the way to the neck of the fitting.

Now screw the coupler onto the threaded portion of the fitting and hand tighten. After you hit the "hand tightened" point, give it a little more torque--up to one-third more turn and the fitting's in place.
Turn your water pressure back on and check the job. It's a snap!

P.U. Proboscis Asks: Ammonia In My Reefer?

"Dear Low Tech RVing: When I open my RV refrigerator door, I about get knocked over by a strong ammonia odor. I only use 'Simple Green' to clean my fridge. Is there a problem here?"--P.U. Proboscis"

Ah, another sad story from someone like P.U. Odors and RV refrigerators aren't uncommon, happily most are related to failure to take last month's supply of forgotten leftovers out and pitch them. Sad to say, sometimes RVers returning from a trip have actually forgotten to remove food from the traveling fridge, and after a while, the memories of the happy meals shared on the road turn into a nightmare. A good cleaning out may not always cure the problem. Some have found that commercial "pet odor" removing concoctions (found at pet stores) applied liberally to the inside of the fridge will actually remove even those "unforgettable" rotten food odors.

But the strong smell of ammonia in the RV fridge, that's another story. RV reefers don't work like the ones back home. Instead of using a compressor motor (highly energy consumptive) a combination of ammonia, hydrogen, and water is heated by a burner (or small electric element) and through the magic of science and technology, remove heat from the refrigerator box. Sadly, if the cooling system which seals this trinity of chemicals in matrimony is breached, well, all sorts of refrigerator hell break loose. If you smell the strong odor of ammonia around your RV refrigerator, its cooling unit is most likely kaput.

Kaput cooling units can be conquered with replacements, and yes, if you are very handy with tools you may be able to do-it-yourself. If you feel hesitant, most RV repair firms can do it for you. However, the consensus among RV techie types is this: If your RV refer is older than 10 years, it's probably just better to replace the whole unit as after all, other things can go gunny bag too. New refrigerators come with warranties. Not that a 12 or 14 hundred dollar payout makes you feel good. If your RV isn't moving much, i.e. you spend all your time in an RV park with available electricity, you might consider replacing the confounded chiller with a small "apartment size" refrigerator unit. Sears has them for about $350.

Photo: JasonRogers on Flickr.com

"Folgers" P-Trap Solution May Help Tank Stink

For those whose RV is connected to a drain most of the time, you probably keep your gray water valve open. At times a smelly little problem arises: Sewer gases can come back up the sewer hose, into your gray tank, and slow migrate their way up the through the tank and out the roof vent. At times those same evil essences can somehow re-infiltrate your RV with a negative impact on your olfactory organs.

Worse still, if there are any "vague" connections in your gray water venting system, those nasty little essences can also make their creeping way out, carrying not just the odor of gray water (as bad as that is) but with a direct connection to the city sewer (or local septic system) that REALLY horrific scent of black water can invade your premises.

What to do? Enter the Folgers P-Trap solution: If you leave your sewer hose connected and the dump valve open, stick a P-trap between the sewer and you. Simply obtain a coffee can (or a large rock, and make a bend in your sewer hose, as illustrated in the photo here. Gray water will advance over the bend, but the water trapped in the hose on the "rig side" of the coffee can will prevent the odoriferous fumes from crossing over.

Mind you, when you dump your black water you'll want to temporarily remove the coffee can to allow a free-flow of black water, etal, to make the trip down the sewer unimpeded.

The Moral of the Vanishing Trailer

A Deming, New Mexico man's experience may lead to enhanced security views for some in the RV community. It seems his travel trailer "vanished" from New Mexico, and somehow reappeared over in Safford, Arizona.

Police got a call from the trailer's owner, telling them he'd located his missing trailer in an RV park in Safford. Local police turned out and questioned the trailer's occupants and pieced together a story--and an arrest. Apparently the suspect needed a 'nicer place for himself, girlfriend, and their baby' to live, so he paid a fellow he knew in Deming to steal a trailer for him. Interesting approach to housing, but police are working out the details of prosecution.

Inexpensive "hitch locks" that prevent a trailer's hitch from locking down on a tow vehicle ball can make a would-be theif think twice about running off with your trailer. Here's one from the Camping World site. For less than a $40 investment, it'll save a lot of worry. Security locks are available for your fifth wheel, too.

Photo courtesy Camping World

Ultra Low Sulfer Diesel Could Lead to Problems

ULSD (ultra-low-sulfer-diesel fuel) is thoroughly in the fuel pipeline across the nation. Early on there were complaints from some that the formulation caused fuel system leaks in some rigs, as lower levels of aromatics was blamed for shrinking some engine seals.

Another issue that you might run up against is raised by a chemist with Power Service Products, a fuel additive manufacturer. The chemist, David Forester, is quoted in the September 2007 issue of Light & Medium Truck magazine, speaking out on concerns about ULSD's water-carrying ability. Apparently the "old" higher sulfur containing diesel had a greater affinity for carrying water, while the new ULSD, does not.

"When fuels reduce their ability to carry water, they tend to shed it more quickly. [Water] builds up on the bottom more quickly. The separation of water leads to a variety of increased issues," says Forester. What kind of issues? During warm months, diesel fuel contaminated with microbes can serve as a great growth medium. Sulfur tends to act as a poison to microbes, but with less sulfur in diesel, the microbes can thrive.

As colder weather marches in, the inability of ULSD fuel to carry water may rear its head in iced up fuel filters. Forester adds, "Once they get below 30 degrees Fahrenheit, the solubility of water in fuel is almost nonexistent. So if there is any water present in the fuel at those temperatures, it will freeze. You'll see ice crystals build up on filters."

What to do? A couple of schools of thought exist: Both suggest the use of fuel additives; some say they won't allow water to remain in the fuel--and say the water is then pulled out of the system by the engine's fuel/water separator. The other school says their products encapsulate the water and let it run harmlessly through the engine. We've not seen solid evidence yet pointing to either one being superior. Some diesel additives also claim to be antimicrobial. Happy shopping!

Grease Fittings for Trailer Axle Bearings?

A friend of ours who's an RV newbie spent a weekend on a busy beach, loaded with RVers. He was having problems with his rig, and like we've all experienced, lots of RV folks were happy to lend him a hand. In a conversation with one, the subject of axle bearing maintenance came up. By the time Mike got home, he was "sold" on the idea of using a boat trailer axle bearing grease system--the kind where you simply pump lube through a zerk fitting, as opposed to hand packing the grease. Think of the savings on maintenance!

Well, those systems aren't all that they're cracked up to be, particularly for RV applications. Bearing Buddy systems are designed for sealed marine applications. The trouble with squirting grease into an RV axle is you don't really have a handle on how much grease is already in there. Push in too much, where will it go? Out into the wheel area, likely onto the brakes, and whoopsie doo, on your next 7% downgrade you'll find out just how mixing grease and trailer brakes is a really BAD idea.

Enter Dexter's "E-Z Lube" system. Dexter builds axles used on a lot of RVs, and some of them have the "E-Z" system--specially designed, it allows the owner to pump grease through the axle spindles and into the bearings. But many RVers who have the system complain they can't pump enough grease to get the old grease out; others say they fear blowing out the rear seals; still others say their RV maintenance guys fear the same problems that are posed by Bearing Buddy system: Grease on the brakes.

There's much to be said for hand-packing your axle bearings: It forces you to take the wheels off the axles, giving you the opportunity to inspect your brakes, brake magnets, and associated hardware. Like one RVer says, "I figure those eight wheel bearings are supporting over 11,000 lbs of very valuable RV and equipment... one afternoon a year [to hand pack the bearings] is a small price to pay."

Yes, it's true that there are RVers who really love their EZ Lube systems, and haven't had any problems with them. We'd add, "at least not yet." I don't know how much I'd want to gamble all my stuff on it.

Diagram courtesy Dexter Axles

Air Pressure Gauges: Dial Me Up or Stick it to Me?

We've often "lectured" on the necessity to caring properly for your tires. 'Take care of your tires and they'll take care of you!' has been our mantra. A major part of caring for those rubber donuts is making sure you've got sufficient air pressure. How do you test yours?

Some folks rely on "built in" gauge on the hose down at the gas station. You may have noticed that those gauges have been becoming fewer and fewer as the days roll along. And even when the hose does have a gauge, after having been slapped around like a TV wrestler, they tend to get a bit punch drunk and don't give reliable information.

Some folks like the "put it in your shirt pocket," "stick" style air gauge. They may have a point, but we've found the "stick" type aren't always accurate, and often have the drawback of having fewer "graduations," making it difficult to ensure what the pressure is within less than five pounds. Here's another case of spending a few more bucks, but spending it wisely. The "dial" type air gauges are more accurate, and usually read down to the precise pound of pressure.

If you spring for the dial style, do take good care of it. Dropping it on the pavement can cause irepairable damage. We carefully put ours away in the "glove box" (who--other than snobs maybe--drive with gloves these days?) when not in use.

High Tech Propane Leak Finder Beats Bubbles

We all face it: With LP gas such a major supplier of energy in our rigs, sooner or later you'll have to deal with a gas leak. Left "unfixed" as quick as you can say, "Hindenberg!" your dream rig can go up in smoke, taking you with it.


For years the industry standard for leak detection was a bath of soapy water. Paint our pour a stiff solution of dish soap and water on a suspect fitting, and if it bubbles, you found it. Well, technology has its "one upmanship." How about an electronic gas leak detector? A whole lot less mess, and certainly sensitive, we've found "Pocket Air Check" put out by a midwest firm just the thing.


For those with older truck campers, you're still probably using the old style "POL" fitting propane tanks. When you refill these tanks, you have to be extremely careful about firmly tightening the fittings--the least bit of looseness can lead to a leak.
We keep our Pocket Air Check detector handy, and more than once have found the fellows who've tightened the fittings haven't done such a good job.


The detector does more though: Just turn it on, and run it along any gas line or fitting, holding it a quarter inch away. If a bit of gas is found, both an audible alarm and an LED light warn you of the danger. Not expensive either, Camping World sells them for less than $25, an inexpensive way to a lot more safety.

Is Your RV an Orphan?

A lot of us are rolling around the countryside in older RVs. Some of them are "so durned ancient," that the company that built our rig has long since gone out of business. That leaves us with what's popularly called an "orphan" RV. Nobody to fall back on for those unique parts. But hang on, when something breaks, we may not be completely out on a limb.

Yep, there really are RV parts orphanages. Think about it, they’ve got wrecking yards for automobiles, how about RVs? Those old hulks have gotta go somewhere. In addition to RV wrecking yards (many of whom do business by mail), there are also RV surplus stores, many located in RV manufacturing hubs where all those "leftovers" go when there’s been a change on the assembly line.

One excellent Internet resource that lists a variety of salvage yards, surplus outlets, and other sources is found at www.rv.net. Click on the "RV News and Reviews" tab, thence on "Parts and Manuals."

For a couple of frequent problem areas, here are some good tips. Older but "modern" gas-fired RV appliances like refrigerators, water heaters, and furnaces just seem to "eat" their electronic control boards for breakfast. Even when you can find a board through the manufacturer, you may pass out at the cost. Check out www.dinosaurelectronics.com, who provides brand-new "replacement" boards. They’re often less expensive than the OEM, and on one occasion, their tech support folks even saved me the cost of a new board by diagnosing over the phone what my board problem was. A friend with an electronics background was able to replace a couple of inexpensive components on the existing board and we were back in business.

RV refrigerator problems are notorious. Just because your cooler won’t cool doesn’t necessarily mean that you need a new refrigerator, or even necessarily a cooling unit. A visit to www.rvmobile.com will lead you to a huge section on troubleshooting. And if you do really need parts, these guys will pretty likely have what you need.

Finally, another note on hunting for manuals. If you’ve tried everywhere and can’t seem to find what you need, posting a question on an appropriate RV forum will often locate somebody who has a copy of the manual. An offer to pay for postage and copying costs can often net you what you need. And keep an eye on those forums--you might just have what somebody else needs.

The Generator "DUH" Factor

If you read our "Boondocking" blog, you'll know that for years we've been strict proponents of alternative energy for RVing. Solar panels, wind, that's been the hardline from our camp. And then (gasp) we bought an RV with ("Mama! Cover the kid's ears!") a generator.

It's been an experience. We haven't fore sworn solar, and when we'll soon be transferring our wind generator system to the new research rig, but we've actually grown slightly fond of the generator. But as things go, there has been a bit of a break in period.

For starters, there wasn't much time on the clock on our little Onan LP generator when we first got it. Unless they turn back engine time clocks like odometers on old cars. We had the most cussed time trying to get the thing to run. We finally replaced the spark plug, which is a bit of story in itself. (Built-in generator, little tiny hole to maneuver the plug wrench on a swivel, up from under the rig, and finally get the thing out). The new plug was all she needed.

We hit the road a few weeks ago from our normal stomping grounds, and half the party got sick on the road. Las Vegas, hot August days, nobody likes lying around feeling yucky in sticky heat. Turn on the genny! A quick run up, a few turns of the engine, and "silence." Not the time for a dead generator. I nearly expected the buzzards to start circling.

Happily, the problem was a quick fix. An inspection of the oil level dipstick proved us way down, and a few ounces of the precious petroleum product restored Onan's good humor, and air conditioning was ours.

So generator newbies, keep close in mind the simple fixes first. Check that oil level. Check out that sparky plug. Air cleaner clean? Sufficient voltage to turn over the starter? Is the fuel supply sufficient? (Gasoline or diesel in the tank, or LP in the cylinder?) RV generators are, for the most part, pretty happy little creatures if you keep up on the ordinary care and feeding.

Wiring Woes? Diagrams Defuse Difficulties

It wasn't but a few minutes after we'd been doing a little roof work on our "camper project," that another problem surfaced: All the fluorescent lights and the bathroom light "quit" working. What happened here, let's see. Ah, yes! The luggage rack seemed a little wobbly, as did the roof access ladder, and a new set of lag screws had been introduced to try and shore up the situation. Did one of those new screws sabotage the circuit? (Word freaks, stick around, we'll discuss that old origin of "sabotage" question at the end of this entry).

Poking around in the fuse panel revealed a definitely "blown" fuse, but was this the whole story? If only we knew just where the wires ran, it would make the whole job of trying to resurrect the lights much easier. Since the rig is an "orphan," -- it's manufacturer having gone out of the camper business long ago, we despaired. However, a Google search led us to others who had success in finding diagrams for their more current rigs. Hence, we took courage and phoned phleetwood. A sympathetic listener at the other end of the line took the request, even called back later asking for a VIN number, and next morning, hot off the e-mail, a five page wiring schematic for our out-of-production rig.

Long story short department: It didn't take long to figure out a pretty likely "point of impact" for our errant lag screw. We'll attack the roof shortly, and armed with the schematics, if worse comes to worse, we may have a hand on a "work around" solution if it comes to that. Moral of the story: Even if your rig is out of production, if the company still exists, give them a call and ask about the possibility of getting schematics. They may even give them to your for free!

And a word about sabotage: Star Trek fans, while it's a popular notion that throwing sabots (French for clog) into powered looms could "clog up the works," there doesn't appear to be any credible report of such a sandal scandal. More likely, since the word sabot can also be reckoned as a literal clog, the sound made by someone clunking around in clogs leads to the word, saboter. Such walking was oft associated with clumsiness, and later extended to deliberate clumsiness that damaged machinery.

Photo: Looks like the tech writer after a bad day searching for shorts. Credit DerrickT on flickr.com

RV Extension Cord Safety

Ever come up just a "scoatch" short on managing to plug your RV shore power cord into the outlet? It's a frustrating experience, and there's always the temptation to use an adapter and a light duty extension cord to make up the difference. Please don't. Electricity is a funny thing--when too "light" a wiring is used, not only do you endanger yourself with fire, you also run a good risk for your expensive RV equipment.

Here's the deal: Electrical wiring actually does have a certain amount of resistance to the flow of electrical current. The longer the run of wire, the greater the amount of resistance. As the current struggles against this resistance, it produces heat energy--hence electrical cables can actually get hot--sometimes hot enough to create that hideous problem known as fire. What usually "goes first," however is the under-rated fittings on the end of the cables. These can overheat and burn up, or on the way to that create even greater resistance to electrical flow. But even if that doesn't occur, the resistance of the wiring actually reduces the amount of voltage that can reach your RV.

So if you have too small an extension cord out to the RV, and then fire up a big power consumer--on these days we think of the air conditioner, and not enough voltage is present, then physical damage can happen to devices that need that power. So how do you work with this problem? Well, you could purchase a ready-made RV extension cord. For the 30 amp RV crowd, a 25 foot cord will probably set you back as much as $50. For the 50-amp users, that same length could run you over twice that price.

Tempted to "do it yourself," and build an extension cord? It's do-able. But you need good working data on what size conductors to use in your cord. Here's a link to a site that can help you calculate wire size requirements for a given load. But as you run your calculations, be sure to take into account the length of your existing RV shore power cord. One of our rigs has a 25' shore power cord, so building an additional 25' of extension cord would require figuring a full 50' run. Whatever you do, don't skimp on the wire gauge or the fittings.

If you decide to build your own, always double check your connections before putting your cord into service. We use the ohm meter portion of a digital multimeter to verify that everything it where it should be. Imagine our surprise when we completed a cable and we found two of the conductors reversed. How'd that happen? Squinting through bifocals at the included wiring diagram for one of the fittings, a slight misinterpretation of what the fine print and finer arrow we're pointing to led to what could have been a real problem.

If you're the least bit squeamish about your ability, drop the bucks on a commercially built unit.

And one more thing, when you use any shore power cord, it's never a bad idea to pull all the shore power cable out of the compartment before hooking up and using the shore power. Why? Well, since cable does have resistance, if you put enough load on your shore power cord, you could actually have the equivalent of a "heating cable" in your cabinet--like those things those poor folks in the north use to keep their pipes from freezing in winter.

Charging Batteries Safely

A news item out of Yuma, Arizona, last month points to a couple of reminders--and a product lead--that could affect your safety as an RVer.

Imagine waking up at one in the morning with your smoke detector going off, and that awful sound of a roaring fire outside your bedroom door. It happened in mid-June to a Yuma couple, who were planning an outing with their motorhome. Apparently having a low battery problem with the motorhome, the owner had hooked up a battery charger and left it. Sadly, the battery overcharged, and the resulting heat ignited a fire. In the end the motorhome and the family home were completely wiped out. You can find the whole story on the Yuma Sun website.

We've been around battery chargers since we were 'knee high to a married grasshopper' and some of the "oldy" chargers that our pappy's owned were probably hanging around when they were knee-highs themselves. It just seems like battery chargers are one of those products that rarely give up and die. As a result, many of us are limping along on ancient technology that may work--albeit inefficiently--but can (as it apparently did this time) lead to tragedy.

A lot of us use portable battery chargers, and many of these fall into the category of what's technically called an "unregulated charger." Hook it up, the charger delivers a charging voltage (higher than the "rated" voltage of the battery) and just keeps a charging. The battery voltage increases as it charges up, and it will eventually reach a point where the electrolyte will literally boil. An unregulated charger needs to be monitored. Yes, with this type of charging system, you would want to occasionally hit the boiling point to "equalize" the charge in the cells. However, if you "cook" them too long, you'll kill the battery, or even worse--lead to a fire danger.

A complete discussion of battery charging is an appropriate topic--and we'll cover it in a future blog entry. Now, however, we make this point: For many it's simply safer, and far more efficient, to use what is termed an "intelligent charger." An intelligent charger recognizes the state of the battery's charge, and supplies exactly what is required at any given stage in the recharge process. Enter the Xtreme Charge maintenance charger. A relatively inexpensive ($99 list) charger, Xtreme is an "intelligent charger" that also adds an additional benefit: This charger "pulse charges," inducing a wave into the charging current that breaks up sulfate crystals in batteries. These sulfate crystals, if left to themselves, will eventually kill off an otherwise good battery. The Xtreme can be left hooked up to the battery, and it will maintain a safe current level, along with the sulfate-eradicating pulse.

Xtreme's manufacturer sent us an evaluation unit a couple of months ago. While we're still testing it, so far we've been pleased with it. It's a small unit that can fit in many battery compartments, and even if it won't it's weather proof, so you don't need to worry about a passing rain shower shorting out your system. While the specs indicate the Xtreme is designed for battery systems up to 150 amp-hours, the company whiz-kids tell me that it will work with larger systems, but its relatively low (2.5 amp) maximum charge current will take a while. Amen to that. For a larger system, consider the Xtreme a good investment in battery maintenance, rather than full-scale charging. Find out more at the Pulsetech website.

There are also "intelligent charging" systems available on many after-market (and some OEM) RV converters--those little devices that convert shore power into low-voltage power, suitable for use by RV interior lighting and other uses. In any event, when you hook up a charging system to your RV batteries, make sure you keep an appropriate watch on it--particularly if it's an unregulated charger.

Fire Photo: Yuma Sun Charger: pulsetech.com

Battle of the Ants

The popular children's song, The Ants Go Marching, begins a progression of a single ant marching through ten rather tedious verses, finally ending with the ants marching 10 by 10, and the little one proclaiming this is, "The End!"

Sadly, ants in the RV never go marching singly, and rarely by the 10s. We woke up one fine morning with an upset cat, doing her best imitation of a bird dog 'at point.' Her hissing target? A large, black, moving column of ants, working its way across the RV from a crack near the entry door, across the flooring, up the wall cabinet, and into the kitchen sink. Hundreds of the little boogers, all intent on carrying away whatever it is that struck their fancy.

Ants in the RV, like the proverbial ants in the pants, are nothing to laugh about. How do you get rid of them, and keep them gone? In our case, the first response to the attack (after cat and distaff set cleared the area) was a trip to the local hardware store. A high powered spray specifically designed for invading ants made fairly quick work of the invading forces. But how to keep them gone? Friends who were serving as Katrina relief volunteers in New Orleans quickly filled us in on the 'magic circle of Comet' trick used down there.

Ants are clever creatures--they send out scouts who scurry about the territory, looking for suitable food and water sources. If one crawls up your RV tire, water hose, power cable, et al, and eventually finds something inside your rig, he or she leaves a little smell trail of pheromones. Your proboscis won't pick up on it, but to the ants, it's an irresistible essence that must be followed--by hundreds of the scout's fellows. Why are these ants marching in a circle? Clever researchers took a dilute form of their pheromone and painted on the paper, then turned the ants loose. It's strong stuff--it's said that as little as .33 of a milligram of straight pheromone could leave a discernable trail around the entire circle of the earth!

For whatever reason, ants won't cross a line of bleach-containing scouring powder. Maybe it kills the pheromone trail, maybe it burns their little feet, we don't know. In any event, get out the Comet and shake a good border around everything of your rig that touches the ground: Tires, landing gear, stabilizers, cords, and hoses. This is better than spraying insecticide on these utilities, because the powdered cleanser will simply shake off, not stick to your hands, nor cause grief for pets and kids. Of course, if the rains fall you may need to renew your magic circle, but while the powder's out, the ants are gone.

Photos courtesy US Department of Agriculture

Spring Cleaning Time for Fresh Water Tanks

If your RV has been sitting "in the mothballs" all winter and you're readying it for travel season, don't neglect the fresh water tank. It only takes about one mouth of "yecchh!" water to convince you that water can go stale. What's to do? Well, this is the same trick we recommend when you buy an RV prior to using it.

You'll need to completely drain your fresh water holding tank, and run the water pump until all water is out of the system. If your water heater is "in the circuit" (meaning not winterized, but holding water) drain it too, using the drain cock on the heater. Of course, you've shut it off first.

Determine the fresh water tank's capacity--easy if you have the rig's owner manual. If not, locate the fresh water tank and measure it. Break down the feet and inches to decimals, i.e., a 4' 6" run is 4.5' Multiply the height, width, and depth figures to come up with total cubic feet of capacity. Now multiply the capacity times 7.48051945, which is the conversion factor for cubic feet to gallons.

With gallon capacity on hand, drag out the household bleach--NOT the scented variety. In a clean container, a one gallon cleaned juice jug is ideal, pour 1/4 cup of bleach for every 15 gallons of tank capacity. Top off the jug with clean, fresh water. We had a careful reader warn us to only add bleach to water--we've got a call into a bleach manufacturer for clarification. If you're concerned, "guesstimate" how much room you'll need in the jug for the bleach and put the water in first. We'll post our research results as soon as they become available on the "bleach last" issue.

Be sure your fresh water drain valve is closed (and the water heater if applicable), and pour this bleach solution into the holding tank. Now completely fill the fresh water holding tank with clean, fresh water. At this point if you can, move your RV around the block to thoroughly swish and mix the solution in the tank.

Now turn on the water pump and pump the bleach solution through all the plumbing. You'll know when you've pumped enough as you should smell the bleach solution at the fixture. Let solution stand in the plumbing and fresh water tank overnight. Next day, drain the fresh water tank (and again, water heater if applicable), and refill the fresh tank with clean, fresh water. If you're concerned about the chlorine taste or odor, mix up a solution of 1 quart of cider vinegar for every five gallons of tank capacity and dump it in the fresh tank, repeating the same process you did for the bleach job.

Air Conditioner Maintenance Part 2: Up on the Roof

In our last installment we discussed how to handle the "inside the rig" part of air conditioner maintenance. Now we move to the part of the job will take you up topside. You’ll need a sturdy ladder. As a general rule to protect your roof, don’t walk on it. This particularly applies to older rigs that don’t have a solid plywood deck under the roofing material. Best to put a "kneeler board" across the rafters and knee walk across it to reach the ac unit.

At the unit, check out the condition of the condenser fins. These little guys provide a broad surface for outside air to draw away the heat pumped out from the inside of your rig. If they’re bent, like the two photos show, they’ll need to be straightened out to remove that heat efficiently. A thin knife or screwdriver blade may help. Or you can use an air conditioner fin comb--a specialty tool that can help if the fins are not too badly bent. We once spent countless hours with a knife blade straightening out a whole mess of fins that had been completely bent over.

While on the roof, inspect the ac unit "shroud," the protective cover. These are prone to taking hits from branches; plastic ones often get damaged by UV rays. Sometimes they can be fixed with fiberglass cloth and resin--check out a boat supply or auto parts house. If you repair cracks on the inside of the shroud, the work will likely be secure, but not obvious to outside observers. A more expensive solution is installing a replacement shroud.

The shroud should be securely mounted, you’ll find screws around the bottom of the shroud that tie it to the ac unit itself. Too much zeal with a screwdriver can easily crack the shroud around the mounting holes, rendering it useless. Take it easy! Firm, but not over-torqued is the rule for installing a shroud.

Take the screws out and carefully remove the shroud. Again, make sure you have the power disconnected--you don’t want the ac unit to start up while you’re poking around "under the hood." You’ll be looking for the evaporator--it looks like a small automotive radiator. Take a brush and gently remove dust from it--if you have an air compressor, gently blast the dust out with pressurized air. Getting the dust out will make your system more efficient.

Now check out the motor. Some ac units will have oil holes, possibly covered with a rubber plug. Other ac motors are permanently sealed and don’t require lubrication. For the former, carefully remove the plug and add 3 or 4 drops of oil--some recommend "three in one" oil for the job. Over-oiling is worse than not oiling! Replace the rubber plug(s).

Put the shroud back on, while keeping the torque down to a dull roar.

Wind It Up

Now it’s time to test the system. Be sure you have sufficient power--most ac units require your RV be hooked up to at least a 30 amp service. If you don’t have the power, wait until you get somewhere where a 30 amp circuit is available. Turn on the unit and let her rip. You should have plenty of cold air delivery. Enjoy a cool summer!

RV Air Conditioner Maintenance Part 1: The Inside Job

As summer draws closer (or for those of us in the southwest, as it continues on unabated), air conditioning becomes more of a critical issue. Here begins a two-part piece on the hands-on of air conditioner maintenance. We’ll address the most common of RV air conditioning systems--the roof mounted ac unit. Exposed as it is to the elements and low-hanging branches, the roof mounted unit is prey to a lot of problems. But let’s start "inside" first.

The easiest part of the assignment is simply cleaning or replacing air filters. Check your owner’s manual to find instructions for getting the filter out of the unit--typically by removing a couple of screws and pulling a grill loose to access the filter. This filter, although cleaned in the last few weeks, is in serious need of cleaning again.


Some ac unit filters can simply be washed in warm, soapy dishwater, thoroughly dried, and reinstalled. In use, washable filters should be removed and cleaned a couple of times a month if used in dusty areas; once a season should be enough elsewhere.

Some ac filters are not washable but must be replaced. Here’s a thought: You can replace nearly any ac filter with an after-market "electrostatic" filter that is said to capture more dust and pollen than typical OEM filters. We’ve never actually tested them out, but if you’ve got twenty bucks to check the theory out, visit a Camping World store for these super filters.

While you’re working with the filter, check out your unit’s ducting. Some rigs have simple metal channels to deliver chilled air; others may use heat distribution hoses. If you can, it’s a good time to vacuum out your ducts while servicing the filter.

So much for filters, if you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, check out unit security. We’re not talking about somebody stealing your ac unit, but rather having the thing get loose and fall of your rig. An ac unit is bolted onto your rig roof top, and generally speaking, the mounting bolts come down through the roof and snug up inside the rig. Often these can be accessed by removing the inside trim that surrounds the unit. Be sure to disconnect the power before puling this trim--you may expose electrical fittings you don’t want to get your fingers into. Once you spot the mounting hardware, make sure it’s tight. Incidentally, water leaking into your RV through the ac unit can sometimes be traced to loose mounting bolts.

We'll get onto the outside work in our next installment.

Buy New? Ain't Necessarily Necessary

RVs, are sadly like cars: Sooner or later you've got to replace something. And like cars, parts aren't usually cheap. But here's a little secret that many don't know about RVs: Also like cars, you don't always have to "buy new," when you need parts.

We don't suppose you've lain awake at night wondering where RV heaven is. Most folks never give a thought to where RVs go "at the end of the hunt." Like automobiles, there really are RV wrecking yards--okay, excuse us! RV recycling yards. They're scattered across the country, and they carry a fascinating array of parts: From roof vents to holding tanks, siding to windows, dinettes to dump valves, if you're looking for an RV part, there's probably an RV recycler that has what you need. But how do you find such an outfit?

You just need to point your browser to the Scavenger's Connection. It's a neat little database of RV salvage yards where you can search a variety of fields to locate a yard within reach. Or depending on your part, for a part within reach of the post office or UPS, as many yards will ship your part to you. We prefer to visit the yard when looking for parts. In the northwest, near Rochester, Washington, we often visit Singleton's RV Salvage yard. We've found it best to check out the part we need to ensure it really fits, looks like what we want, and will do what we need.

How much will you pay? The law of supply and demand seems to dictate: Popular parts like air conditioning units and refrigerators may run 70% or more of "new" prices. Lesser in demand stuff can run pennies on the dollar. And like "Uncle Bulgie's Wrecking Yard" of my youth, it can also depend on the mood of the yard owner at the time you stop in. Pay attention--it pays.

By the way, when you hit the Scavenger's Connection web site, you can simply click on "View and Search the Database" down at the bottom of the page. You don't need to register to look things over.

Keeping the RV Refrigerator Cool

RV refrigerators are a special breed of cat: They don't use mechanical pumps to move coolant, it's all handled by heat and gravity. While they do a great job in the real RV world, they aren't like home refrigerators. First, some operating tips that may alleviate problems:

Cool your refrigerator before packing it. Turn it on 24 hours before you plan to head out. When packing, always put COLD food in the unit--it won't like warm food.

Leave plenty of room around the stuff inside the refrigerator compartment--you need good air flow. To help that "in the box" cooling, for about $15 you can get a FridgeCool unit. Battery operated, it really can make a difference.


A door gasket that doesn't keep the cold in, and the hot out can be a problem. George can help. George who? George Washington! Open the reefer door and stick a dollar bill against the door frame edge, partly hanging out of the cooler box. Close the door and pull on the bill. If George makes an escape without resistance, the door gasket isn't up to snuff and should be replaced. Food particles and other guck can give a false impression, so be sure to clean the gasket and door frame with soapy water (and a ending rinse) before trying this trick. Be sure to make George work all the way around the door frame to ensure 100% gasket cooperation

Keep 'er level: An off-kilter refrigerator is not efficient, and the effects of operating an RV refrigerator off-level will accumulate and eventually KILL your refrigerator's cooling unit. Can you say "hundreds of dollars to replace"? Use a round level inside refrigerator and keep at least a half a bubble inside the center of the bull's eye.

Check out the roof vent, too. RV "reefers" have to liberate heat, and they do so through a roof vent directly above the reefer. Birds have been known to build nests in the vents, and obstructions like that will really cut down on cooling efficiency.

In hot weather, try and park with the wall area behind your reefer in the shade.

If it works on gas, but doesn't work on electric, or vice versa, there's usually nothing wrong with the cooling unit. If you don't get cooling on gas, inspect the gas burner (at the bottom of the vertical stack) to make sure crud from the chimney hasn't fallen down onto the burner, obstructing it or even causing the burner to not light. Blow the junk off the burner with a puff of air or carefully brush it off with a paint brush. Be sure to SHUT OFF the reefer first!

For great diagnostic info, check out the RV Mobile, Inc. website.

How Old Izzat Tire? And What Does It Matter?

Those expensive 'rubber donuts' we put on our RVs are far too often, neglected. After all, there's not much "attractive" or sensual about tires. Emelda Marcos didn't keep a garage full of them, and tire showrooms are generally noisy places that offer popcorn, not caviar, to shoppers.

We've blogged about keeping a close eye on your tire pressure, but that's not the only concern. Keeping your RV tires "fresh" is just as important--and more easily overlooked. After all, when did you last change out your RV tires? I can't tell you when I did--I only remember it was because we had an alignment problem and scuffed a couple of the poor beggars to death.

The RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association) warns that RV tires, unlike car "shoes," generally don't wear out--they 'date out.' Because we put so few miles on them, our RV tires are more likely to die of UV radiation poisoning than from road wear. The RVIA says, "Statistics indicate that the average life of an RV tire is five to seven years." After that, you're living on borrowed time and living dangerously.

So how old are your tires? Here's a picture of a tire sidewall stamp:

The so-called "DOT Code" lists the information we need. The last 4 digits, 2104 in this case, tell us the tire was built in the 21st week (21) of 2004 (04). That dates this tire manufacture at sometime in the middle of May 2004--about three years old, plenty of "age" left in it for an RV tire.

But notice too, a bit of "weather checking" on the sidewall near the rim. Caused by heat, age, ozone exposure, and (believe it or not) exposure to petroleum tire dressings, "sidewall weathering" can weaken the tire and your safety. If these cracks are more than 2/32" deep, replace the tire. And lay off the use of "tire dressings." They may make the tire shiny, but they'll eat up your investment.

Rotten Wood? Try Stabilizer.

Many RVs, particularly older ones, have a fair amount of wood in their support structure. And wood, sad to say, is subject to the rigors of life in a moisture filled environment. If not thoroughly protected, dry rot can be the result.

Our recently acquired truck camper "project" must have led a colorful life in some prior owner's hands. Read, "low branches" with a rubber roof, and you know what can happen there. Instead of using the right repair materials, the job was a half-baked thing that leaked, and there was a spot in the underlying plywood decking where water got in. A soft patch of decking, with the layers of plywood actually separating. What's to do?

Short of a major renovation including plywood removal, installation of a new roof, and all the attendant financial ramifications, we're trying a pilot project. The folks from Elmer's (of glue fame) have released a dry rot killer/wood stabilizer product and (on our own) we've undertaken to see if it will resolve our problem. After peeling back the EPDM rubber roofing material, we removed loose plywood, bored small holes throughout the area, and impregnated the plywood thoroughly with Elmer's Rotted Wood Stabilizer. We then temporarily ran screws throughout the area to bring the plywood layers together. After allowing 24 hours in warm air to try, we pulled the screws, spread layers of exterior wood filler, dried, sanded, and buttoned it up.

Immediate observations? The plywood is most decidedly hardened up--although we're not willing to risk walking on it--we never walk on our RV roof anyway. We'll keep an eye on it over time and report back. For more information on this interesting product, check out the Elmer's web site.

Maintain That Expensive Battery Bank

Batteries are black boxes we don't think about much. Not until the rueful day comes when they don't respond as we want them to, and we're off to buy new ones--and maybe driving 50 miles 'out of the dingles' to do so. Maintaining your batteries saves money and frustration, and it doesn't take much to do.


First, the requisite word of caution: Whenever you work with batteries of electrical systems, even "low voltage" ones, take off your jewelry! Watches, rings, and bling-bling things. The potential energy in an RV battery is something to reckon with, and welding your ring to an electrical contact will ruin your whole day. Watch out with tools and other metals. The male of this writing duo once dropped a crescent wrench across a deep cycle battery--fortunately he was able to rescue it before it welded into place--narrowly avoiding a major fire.


Keep 'em Charged: A battery left in a low state is one that deteriorates.


Keep 'em Clean: That "little bit of dirt" across the top of the battery case can actually conduct electricity in the presence of moisture. A slight, but real discharge of juice can occur.


Keep 'em Filled: ALWAYS keep the top plates of "flooded" batteries covered with electrolyte. This means refilling to the "split ring" or about a half inch above the separators. ONLY USE distilled water, NEVER tap water. Don't over-fill.

Keep Out Intruders: Don't add "battery acid" or other additives. Thus far nothing has really proved up in the way of a miracle elixir that will give you more power, more potency, or more life to your batteries. There's no such thing as "Voltage Viagra."


We found a great tool to help us keep our batteries filled up. We have very little "head space" in the compartment above the top of the batteries, and they don't easily come out for service. A solar panel retailer sold us a battery fill tool, the "filler part" of which presses into the battery cell and fills until the correct level is reached. It's real skinny, as you can see, and fits right into those tight spaces. Alas! The retailer went belly up, and we've yet to find somebody else that sells them. They were a lot less expensive than the automated battery fill systems being marketed today. If you know anybody who carries these great tools, please post a reply!

Rotating Holding Tank Vent Really Does the Job

We blogged earlier about dealing with holding tank odors through better tank management. Here's another trick the nose knows works: Those fancy wind-driven rooftop tank vents. Here's the deal: The standard OEM vents are not much more than tricky caps to keep the birds out. The don't allow a great deal of air flow to allow the essence of holding tank to escape; at times pressure actually puffs it back down into the tank, and finding any other escape route--sometimes into the coach.

The model we tested, an RV 360, puts a fin atop a rotating vent cap. As the wind blows, the "emitter" side of the vent cap is on the downwind side, causing the wind pressure to suck those narsty gasses out of the holding tank. Does it work? We found our stink situation really alleviated, as have many other RVers.

These systems are not difficult to install, although they can be a bit messy, depending on the type of sealant you use on install. Be sure to wear grungy work clothes. The instructions included with the system are clear enough, but on one install, the instructions left us high and dry. The existing vent pipe was located right next to the rooftop air conditioner unit--and if the 360 vent were placed at rooftop level, it would have bumped right into the a/c unit. Not only would the wind be cut, in some cases the vent unit would simply not turn freely.

We worked around this simply: Using PVC pipe the same diameter as the existing vent pipe, we glued the "bell" end of the new pipe over the top of the existing vent pipe. With this "extension" in place, we attached the 360 vent to the top of our extension. No obstruction problems, no holding tank stink. Total time? About an hour and a half, including the time it took to figure out the "work around." Tools are easy: Putty knife, screwdriver, and a hacksaw if you need to rig an extension.

You can find the 360 at most RV suppliers, including Camping World.

Silence Those Noisy Water Issues

Boondockers and other folks who get away from "city water" connections sometimes complain of a noise when using the RV water system. Sometimes they're just not used to the additional noise produced by the RV's water pump; at other times there are problems--most of which are easily cured.

For "demand" water pump systems--those in use on nearly all RVs built in the last couple of decades--pull water from the storage tank and pump it through the inside lines. While designed with sound reducing isolation pads, sometimes these little "feet" can get away, or even a mooring screw can loosen up, causing undue vibration.

Locate your RV water pump and first ensure that it's firmly tight to the bulkhead or deck. If a screw (or screws) is loose, retighten. If the noise persists, double check to ensure that rubber isolation feet are under each contact point of the pump--and replace any missing parts.

At times, water systems that make noise can be quieted with the addition of an accumulator tank. The accumulator is nothing more than a simple reservior with a cushion of air. When the water pump operates, it pushes up water pressure against that cushion, often reducing the number of "off-on" pump cyclings and evening out the water pressure flow. Accumulators are fairly easy to install, and cost about 40 bucks. Camping World carries one on their website.

Inexpensive heater keeps RV from getting musty while stored

Ross Brand made this inexpensive heater to keep his RV warm enough that it doesn't get musty and rusty while in storage. There isn't much to the device -- a juice can with both ends cut out over a 100 watt light bulb. The light bulb produces just enough heat that the juice can acts like a chimney and keeps the air moving. "It does not heat much," reported Ross, but he said it works just fine.

Don't Get Zapped by Low Voltage Problems

In the classic monster movies, the mad scientist zaps his new "creation" with a huge blast of electricity--and it all goes bad from there. As RVers, the wrong kind of voltage can raise all kinds of problems for us: But what we may fail to be on gaurd against is not high voltage, but low voltage.

As we move nearer to summer, or we plan to attend a big RV rally, low voltage issues really do come to the fore. Pull into that "budget" RV park, plug into the electrical system, and prepare to cool down by switching on the air conditioner. But hang on a minute! Old RV parks often have an old electrical system--one that may well be under-rated for the needs put on it by present-day power-hog RVs. If the electrical system voltage is low--consistently below 104 volts--it can cause damage to RV electrical and electronic gear.

Your air conditioning system is one of the most easily grieved by low voltage. It takes a set amount of power to operate your air condition--it MUST have it. If the voltage is low, then the a.c. unit will still try and respond to your command to produce cool, but in the process, it will run hot. This puts a huge strain on the compressor motors, and given enough trouble, something’s gonna break--and we can gaurantee one thing: It won’t be cheap to fix.

How can your protect yourself? Buy, install, and use a power line monitor. On those hot summer days when everybody around you has fired up their a.c. unit, before you switch on yours, take a quick peek at your monitor--conveniently plugged into a wall outlet--and make sure the power is safely above 104 volts.

We use ours as an added safety benefit against bad electrical wiring at the RVhookup. One of us gets in the rig before we plug into the power. The other plugs in the power, while the inside person verifies that the power monitor shows "good" wiring--no reverse polarity, no "no ground" situations--any of which are present can lead to safety issues. We’ll touch bases on these matters in a future blog entry.

Camping World sells a fancy power monitor for about $65. If you don’t want to spend that much, the use your digital volt meter: Set the meter to monitor AC voltage and carefully plug the probes into the large, rectangular blade slots of one of your wall outlets as shown. Check the voltage that way--but don’t leave the meter probes plugged in unattended! An alternative would be to build yourself a "plug in" cord set, using a wall plug, some "zip" wire, and a set of plugs to fit your meter. With digital meters so inexpensive, you can build your own for a whole lot less.

The Nose Knows Holding Tank Stink

"I stink, therefore I am," says my philosopher. He lives under my RV, and travels everywhere with me. He is a rather nondescript fellow, about six feet tall, four feet wide, and a thin six inches thick. He seems to prefer a dark suit, in fact, every time I lay eyes on him, he's laying about, clad in the black skin of plastic suited to folks of his kind. Although he is never invited inside, from time to time he does--in an awful way--make his presence known. He is a windy fellow, and many of my associates simply state, "He's full of it." And so he is, for my friend the dark philosopher is a black water holding tank.

As much as I try and force him to keep his ideas to himself, he does on occasion air his opinions. Usually my better half, she with the more sensitive of noses, is the first to complain. "You've got to do something about this!" she'll yelp, making a rapid exodus from our little room of rest. It is perhaps the torture stake of the male species, this job of being resident problem-solver.
To keep my dark friend happy, I feed him a gruel of enzymes and bacteria, guaranteed to be "earth friendly," and to relieve my friend of unwanted odors. To be sure, when it doesn't work, I'm not sure who makes a bigger stink--my tank, or my wife.

Holding tank odors are a bane for RVers, but often they can be simply cured. First, we have not enough space to discuss the relative merits of holding tank chemistry--check a future blog for that--but if your tank "sits" for a long time without motion, say parked in an RV park for months on end--a sour tank is often a result.

I know I said I wouldn’t go into depth on holding tank chemistry, but I swear by the natural, enzyme and bacteria friendly variety. When my "green black water tank" goes sour, here’s the first fix: Dump the black water tank and refill with fresh water--and dump it again. Now chuck a pound box of baking soda down the toilet and again, REFILL the black tank with water. Let it sit overnight and dump it again. Now recharge the tank with your bacteria friendly treatment following the maker’s recommendations.

My philosopher friend urges that dogged determination may be required to track down and cure a smelly problem. At least that's what I translate--"When pesky pots pose proboscis problems, probably pointed poking will prevail." 'Nuf said.

Easy Height Adjustment for Re-Hitching

Folks who tow travel trailers and fifth wheels often struggle with hooking back up after setting up their trailer for livability. The problem is this: You unhitch and level the trailer; when it’s time to hitch up again, getting the front of the trailer to the right height to hitch up can be a pain in the neck.

Here’s an easy way to deal with this issue. Get yourself a simple bubble level like the one pictured. Mount it on the side of your trailer at the front of the rig. Fifth wheel folks will like this one, just mount it close to the switch that controls your "landing gear." Don’t use the double stick mounting tape included with the level, but rather, run a screw through the top center portion of the plastic above the level tube. Snug the screw down only far enough that you can push either end of the level up and down with some amount of force required.

Now when you unhitch, raise the front of the trailer high enough to unhitch--just off the ball in the case of a pull trailer, or just off the fifth wheel saddle plate. Now adjust the new level to where the bubble is showing level. You can now level up the trailer for livability--just don’t touch the "hitching level." When it’s time to hitch up again, raise or lower the trailer until the hitching level shows "level" again. Now your trailer is at just the right height roll right under and hitch up.

Don't "Drive 'til the Wheels Fall Off"

The old song declared, "I've got three wheels on my wagon, but I'm still rollin' along."

For most of us, having only three wheels on our fifth wheel or travel trailer "wagon" would apt to be a disaster. Sometimes it happens: Neglected axle bearings can lead to getaway wheels, and the results aren't pretty.

Wheel bearing neglect ranks right up there with failure to regularly inspect tire pressure. Both can have disastrous consequences, the kind that can make your RV trip memorable--but not in glowing "Kodak" memories.

The consensus among RV service techs is that trailer wheel bearings should be inspected and repacked every year. It's not a "rocket science" job, but it does require jacking up the trailer, removing parts, and getting a bit greasy. Figure a couple of hours of your labor will be required.

How to? Will point you to a web site that will step you through packing bearings. Mind you it's dedicated to automotive wheel bearings, but the job's the same. But one thing does differ--you've got to be very careful where and how you jack the trailer.

First, make sure you thoroughly block up the tires on the side of the trailer opposite the one you're jacking--chock them so the trailer won't roll either way. Next, you must select a safe jack point. Never use an axle as a jack point! This can quickly goof up your trailer alignment, and possible affect handling, as well as tire wear. Check your owner manual for proper jack point, and lacking that information, use the trailer frame.

Carefully block the trailer so if the jack slips, you won't be caught in a bad way. We only remove one tire at a time to perform the service, so if anything slips, we have the "insurance" of that other tire holding things up.

OK. Here's a link to an excellent page for more information on the 'down and dirty' part of wheel bearing maintenance.

Battle of the Mini Generators

Spring is on the wing--or so it seems in the southwest. Yes, it’s true our friends in the plains and elsewhere are ‘wishing they were here,’ but truth be told, summer will eventually get here. With summer comes the camper’s complaint: It’s too hot!

Got an air conditioning unit on your RV, but want to camp away from the hookups? Having a portable generator can really make life a lot more enjoyable. But how much "gen" muscle do you need? Plenty of RVers have been enamored by those ‘cute little red (or blue) generators.’ Yes, those Honda and Yamaha generators are popping up all over.

How much muscle do you need to fire that a/c? Here’s the bottom line: While your air conditioning unit’s power consumption is measure in watts, and oft’ times those watts are less than the rated output of the moderately sized, 2,000 or so watt generators, they take a LOT more in the ‘start up cycle.’ Simply put: The popular Yamaha EF200iS and Honda’s EU2000i probably WON’T operate your RV air conditioning.

What’s to do? The next size up for the "Red Boy Toy" is the Honda EU3000iS or Yamaha’s EF3000i. Yep, they cost more than the smaller versions. Some RVers say the only time they need a 3,000 watt generator is when they’re powering the roof air unit. To them, that much muscle is a waste, so they opt to buy two identical smaller units. When less power is needed, they simply run one of the generators, and when a/c is called for, they link the two smaller units together with the manufacturer supplied (optional) bridge cables.

Well, it’s a hard call for some. Two of the smaller units do cost more than one of their larger bretheren. And if you’re cramped for space, you may only have room for one. And consider noise: These little guys are indeed pretty quiet, but oddly enough, the larger models actually do make less noise than their tiny brothers. What about weight? Can you "horse" a generator out of the pickup bed? Some come equipped with rollers and can be ramped out. Others make the wheels an accessory--wherein some RVers have been known to buy a pressure washer frame and wheel kit for less money than OEM accessories.

It may just come down to, ‘You pays your money, and you takes your choice.’

LP Tank Safety Tips

Trailer or camper LP tank in the last few years, you've no doubt learned you need the (not so) new tank valve, an OPD valve, or "overfill protection device." The theory here is that a little device on the valve will prevent the container from being filled more than 80% full, allowing for vapor expansion in the tank. We say theory, because many LP dealers tell us that it doesn't always work that way. Hence, whenever your LP dealer refills your bottle he should open a small "20% valve" which will spit forth liquid LP when the tank has reached its safe filling point. A safe fill means STOP filling at that point. Overfilled LP tanks are risky.

DOT tanks (the kind found on trailers and campers) are initially certified for 12 years from date of manufacture. After those years, they should be inspected and recertified, usually for 5-year intervals. Most LP dealers can do the inspection and "recert," and it doesn't cost a lot of money--some even do it for free. In many localities, if your tank is "out of date," a legitimate dealer won't refill you.

Pay attention to tank position when transporting it or having it filled. If your tank sits vertically in use, it should be transported and filled in that position. If it's a horizontal tank, common in truck campers, then transport and fill only horizontally. That can be a problem with rookie LP filling station attendants--they think all tanks should be filled vertically, and you may need to educate them--in strong terms. OPD tanks don't need to have a plug screwed into the valve mouth while transporting, but putting the dust cap on isn't a bad idea.

When you get your tank home and go to hook it back into the LP system you'll find either a "POL" style fitting on the end of your rig's "pigtail," or one of the new "Acme" fittings. POL fittings are common on older rigs and require a 7/8" wrench to put in. This is a LEFT hand thread fitting that screws into the tank valve, while the Acme fitting is a right hand thread that screws on OVER the tank valve, and is done by hand. The new OPD valves will accept either fitting. When tightening a POL fitting, take care not to over tighten, use your wrench yes, but don't go beyond "just snug." There's an internal rubber seal in the mouth of the valve which over tightening will tear up and eventually cause a leak. In some valves these can be replaced, but in others, a leak will require a whole new OPD valve.

And a note on those Acme fittings: Reports from some RV dealers indicate that the Acme fittings may wear out quicker than the old POL fittings. It may be RVers are just over-torquing them, so go gentle. We know one dealer won't sell the Acme pigtails, but instead offers the old-style POL fitting equipped with a "hand wheel" that allows you to hook up without a wrench. He swears it's a great improvement over Acme.

Photo: "Three sided" OPD valve is a giveaway that your tank meets new valve directive.